surfing (memories)




one of the reasons I decided to do my 365 project here on my blog this year (instead of instagram) was that at the end of 2016, there were so many stories I could have shared here and didn't. 

I was in a full on depressive funk, post-election. obviously. 

and now that all the doomsday stuff I saw coming is (basically) here, I'm still anxious (not gonna lie), but I'm also getting to a place where I'm less constantly full stop freaked out about it all, if that makes sense. 

(if we get nuked, we get nuked. what else can I do but acknowledge that reality and go on with my life?)

anyway, in the middle of that shit storm (waiting for the inauguration), we had the most wonderful getaway. 

M's yearly conference was in Waikiki! 




I mean, pinch me. going to Hawai'i? total dream come true. 

and another dream come true? R and I got to watch the World Cup of Surfing on the North Shore. 

(M joined us for sunset, after his conference.)

(least you think, poor M, missing the surfing competition - he got to experience an amazing music and dance session that afternoon. and then he watched the regulars surf at sunset. win win.)

oh my goodness. 

and it was so low key, y'all. just park and walk over. no fee. no fuss. sit where you can. 

(I went for shade. obviously.)

I don't have a great telephoto lens and I didn't think ahead and bring binoculars, but it wasn't too hard to make out what was going on - the four guys in each heat had different color rash guards on and there were play by play announcers, too. 




and that turned out to be one of the personal highlights of my (very travel heavy) year. 

yup. watching some dudes surf. totally tubular. 

(hell yeah!)